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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.